Jerusalem Day: A Self-Guided Tour

Today I had a free day from my errands and registrations, more because I wasn't able to find the proper offices and the one office that I did find wasn't actually taking customers today. So basically I took it as a sign that there was a government holiday. Or free day, for me.

I set out in the early afternoon with my requisite 1.5 liter bottle of water (slow steps to learning the metric system) and began the adventures. Walking from the neighborhood of Baka through Emek Refa'im and then on a serene, yet slippery, path up to the Old City.

I entered the Old City from the Zion Gate, pocked full of a variety of shells from the 1948 and 1967 wars and perhaps earlier and later, too. This gate is located on the edge of the Armenian and Jewish Quarters of the Old City and, along with the other seven gates of the city, has a pretty interesting history. I made my way through the Jewish Quarter, stopping to take pictures of the Ramban Synagogue, which was originally a synagogue built in the 13th century and, having been completely destroyed in 1948 by the Arab Legion, was just rebuilt and reopened.

After passing through a security checkpoint, I entered the majesty that is the Western Wall Plaza. I never cease to be impressed with this place and the aura, history and spiritualism that surrounds and embodies it. I was very proud of myself for reading a longish sign in Hebrew that detailed the history of the Wall. However, I must admit that even though I understood it all, I mistranslated 'even shtia' as 'drinking rock' instead of 'foundation stone.' To my defense, 'shtia' does mean drink in modern Hebrew..


Before approaching the Wall I washed my hands in a ritual manner and proceeded to an area where I could put on tefilin, which are religious ornaments, so to speak, that are worn during non-Sabbath/holiday mornings. Just prior to the area with the tefilin, I noticed a funny sign that just seemed to be appropriate for the moment, not without biblical language. I wrapped the tefilin properly around my arm and approached the Wall for a prayer. As it has become common practice, I placed a note in the Wall which contained a prayer in it. This time, however, it was not for or from me but rather from a neighbor from Wilmette whose daughter will hopefully regain her health.

I left the Jewish Quarter soon thereafter and headed for the Jaffa Gate, via the Christian Quarter. Winding through alleyways I entered the courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher through a back entrance I had not yet been through. At least my directional instincts were spot on. I continued through until I exited the Old City and walked through a nice, new shopping center in a neighborhood called Mamilla (I enjoy pronouncing the double 'L' like you would in Mexico). After admiring the shops and outdoor artwork and cafes, I headed for the center of town. There I found a cell phone branch where a friend had referred me to a specific agent. He actually offered a pretty good deal so I might take him up on it tomorrow.

I walked through a bit of a park for some more scenery and greenery along the way and walked down Derech Hevron (literally, Hebron Way), which is actually the way to get to Hevron, as the streets were named pretty logically back in the days of yore. Again, another great day. This time I owe a big thanks to the guide, who really knew his way around and made it quite enjoyable. I'd highly recommend him!