זכרונות, רגשות ואחדות - Memories, Feelings and Unity

 זכרונות, רגשות ואחדות

מי היה חושב שהופעת מוסיקה יכולה לגרום לבן-אדם כל-כך הרבה רגשות חזקים?
אני הייתי עד לאירוע מיוחד שבו הרגשנו בדיוק ככה ויותר.
קוראים לו "מלך העולם."
בישראל הוא מפורסם ואהוב יותר מהמלך בארה"ב, אלויס פרסלי, דומה למה שהחיפושיות עשו לעולם בשנות ה-60 וה-70.
אנחנו מקבלים את מתנתו עשרות שנים ללא הפסקה. אפילו לשמו האמיתי יש משמעות: שלמה ארצי - אחד ממלכי ישראל בארצנו.

הפעם הראשונה שראיתי אותו בהופעה הייתה בקיץ 1996 - כאשר אני ביקרתי בארץ.
מהקיץ הזה הכל נשאר איתי: הטיולים, החברים, הנופים, הריחות, הנסיונות של הביקור לקבר רבין וההופעה של שלמה ארצי. אני הרגשתי שהניסיון הזה היה ממש מיוחד ואני זוכר כמה שמחתי אז

לא מזמן הייתי בהופעה נוספת שלו וכאשר שמעתי את קולו המוכר, נזכרתי בכל אותם דברים וראיתי את הדמיון בין שתי ההופעות. גם בפארק בירושלים. גם בקהל הישראלי. גם עם אותם שירים ועם עוד חדשים.
אבל הפעם הבנתי את המשמעות יותר - לא רק על המילים, אלא גם על מה זה להיות ישראלי, לגור ולחיות בארץ. אני הרגשתי את הכל ברגע אחד והיה נפלא ומיוחד

מכיוון שגדלתי בחו"ל, החיבור שלי לישראל היה דרך מוסיקה ישראלית עכשווית וכתוצאה מכך הנסיון הזה היה יותר מרגש וחזק מכל קונצרט אחר. כל האנשים האחרים שהיו שם גם נהנו מההופעה כמובן, אבל הנסיבות שלי היו שונות - להיות באירוע הזה היה כמו להגשים חלום. באותו לילה הרבה השתנה - כיוון שעד אז עדיין לא הייתי צריך לחלום על ישראל אבל היום אני נמצא כאן ויכול להצטרף לתרבות ולחיים במקום, לראות ולשמוע מקור ראשון. זאת הסיבה למה השירים האלה מוערכים בעיניי בדרך נוספת

בהופעה אני כמעט בכיתי פעמיים. הפעם הראשונה הייתה כאשר שלמה הקדיש שיר לגלעד שליט. אני אפילו לא יכול להסביר את האחדות ותחושת המטרה שהייתה שם.היה די עצוב לדעת שהיינו יכולים להזמין עוד איש להופעה שעכשיו עדיין חסר מאיתנו.
הפעם השנייה שכמעט בכיתי הייתה כאשר שרנו את השיר "ארץ חדשה." שמתי לב שכולנו שרנו ביחד - כל אלפי האנשים שבאו לבלות בקונצרט. כל אחד בקהל הכיר את המילים של כל השירים ושר אותן בקול רם. זה היה מיוחד עבורי והשיר הזה ריגש אותי מפני שאני עולה חדש וסוף-סוף מצאתי את הארץ החדשה שלי.

לשיר ביחד עם אנשים שלא הכרתי באופן כזה מרגש, הראה לי מה החשיבות והמשמעות של "אחינו בית ישראל."

Memories, Feelings and Unity
Who would think that a concert could cause a person to have so many strong feelings?

I was a witness to a special event where we felt just this and even more.
They call him 'King of the World.'
In Israel he is more famous and loved than the 'king' in the United States, Elvis Presley, and has done for Israel what The Beatles did for the world in the '60s and '70s.
We receive his gift for years without a break.
Even his real name has meaning - Shlomo Artzi: one of the kings of Israel, in our land.

The first time I saw him in concert was the summer of 1996 when I visited Israel.
From that summer everything stayed with me: the hikes and tours, the friends, the views and the experiences of visiting former Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin's grave as well as the Shlomo Artzi concert. I felt that this experience was very special and remember how much I enjoyed it.

Just recently I was at another Shlomo Artzi concert and when I heard his familiar voice, I remembered the same feelings I had during my first Israel experience and saw the similarity between the two shows. In a park in Jerusalem, surrounded by an Israeli audience and with the same songs as well as new additions, too. But this time I understood the meaning more - not just the words, but rather what it means to be Israeli and to live in Israel. I felt the power and significance of it all in one moment.

Because I grew up outside of Israel, my connection to Israel was by way of modern Israeli music. As a result, this experience was more powerful and moving than any other concert. All of the other people who were at the concert also enjoyed it of course, but my circumstances were different - to be at this event for me was like a realization of a dream. In the same night a lot changed - I still don't need to dream about being in Israel. I am here now and can participate in the culture and the life here, to see and to hear it from the source instead of envisioning it through music. This is why I value these songs in an additional way.

"Let Him Return Home"

Twice at this recent concert I became emotional. The first time was when Shlomo dedicated a song to Gilad Shalit, the Israeli soldier held hostage in captivity. It is even difficult to express the unity and feeling of a common goal that was especially present then. It was also incredibly sad to know that we could have invited someone else to the festivities who is still missing.

The second wave of emotion was when we sang the song 'New Land' (Eretz Hadasha). I noticed that we all sang together - all of the thousands of people who came to enjoy the concert. Everyone who came to the concert knew the words to all of the songs and sang them enthusiastically. It was a special thing for me and the particular song struck me since I am a new immigrant here and can relate very directly to its meaning since I am just finding my new land.

To sing together with people that I hadn't met before in such an emotional manner showed me the importance and meaning behind "our brothers of Israel."

Festival Finale

And for the fourth Monday in a row (which, in Hebrew, is called 'Yom Shaynee' (Day Two) and can be confusing since I had always reserved that position for Tuesday) I ventured to Jerusalem's esteemed open air market, Machaneh Yehuda for the cultural festivities. Similar to each of my previous experiences, I saw and partook in new and unique activities for this adventure as well. Though I was pretty exhausted from walking around during the day, I did end up having another pretty cool experience there. Two very different food artists crafted some work. One provided free samples of sliced watermelon to onlookers, taking the rinds of the fruit and nailing them to a board; needless to say I did not end up staying to find out the end to that show. The second craftsman might be considered a food sculptor and had numerous examples of fruits and vegetables that were his equivalent of a meticulously manicured bonzai tree. It was at this latter booth that I stopped to take pictures and in doing so became estranged from the tour of the market that I had previously joined. This tour was a pretty cool thing: the guide-ess informed us of the history of the neighborhood, the market itself and changes that had taken place over the years. For example, a bit about the transformation from a solely food-based exchange to the establishment of cafes and chic designer clothing stores. It was also fulfilling that my Hebrew has already progressed to a point where I can join such activities and not wander about aimlessly.

In fulfilling my desire to commission my very own poem, I paid the hefty sum of 1₪ (that's one shekel) and kindly requested a song about my new aliya experience, pictured here (with a translation beneath...that somewhat rhymes/jives better in Hebrew).

I was pretty happy to have received the esteemed composer's words. Despite (or perhaps because of) the cynical manner in which he characterized Israel, it gave me both inspiration and something physical to hold on to to remember the experience of my beginning here (another collectible, I guess).

Aliya
Zionism is not a thing that comes easy
With enemies surrounding
a crazy, furious state
hungry for success
Living in an island of poverty, craziness and confusion
And I live with her

Walking through the main thoroughfare of the market, past the Moroccan man playing old religious tunes on the electric guitar, around the leather-skinned gentleman who brandished both an impressively bushy, curly mustache to go with his sombrero, there was a watermelon eating contest. It was a pretty funny spectacle to view, adding to the eclectic atmosphere of the market. Even across the seas the same theme still resonates: it ain't over 'till the fat lady eats (and she did win by a long shot).

The final festivals I attended were Festival b'Shekel, a neighborhood music event featuring top artists for the cost of a shekel (just so everyone could be able to attend) and a Friday concert series in Sacher Park, replete with extreme sports and a skateboard park filled with kids - religious and secular, guys and girls, Ashkenazi and Sephardi. With the end of the season of the shuk activities and with the closing days of August, festival season came to a climactic close. Balabasta Shuk Tuesdays, atop the other civic additions to the atmosphere of the days and evenings, filled an old cornerstone of Jerusalem with an electricity I hadn't seen here for years.

Day Tripping to Zichron Ya'akov

For the ceremonial cost of a mere 25 shekels, I went with the ulpan North to visit Zichron Ya'akov, where we learned about the history and origins of the town, its establishment and significance in Israel's development. Our first stop was Ramat HaNadiv (which translates to the Heights of the Benefactor), the beautifully manicured gardens are still maintained by the Rothschild Family and is the final resting place of Baron Edmund de Rothschild. The gardens themselves cover over 17 acres of parks and pathways with an additional 1,000 acres of park land surrounding it. On the entrance to the parks the Rothschild family crest (today it would be more like a family logo, if ever there was such a thing) displays five arrows, each representing the Rothschild sons.

After touring the gardens and enjoying rubbing my thumb and forefinger around a series of herbs grown therein to appreciate their respective smells, our spunky, young Israeli guide, Birkatya (God's blessing) starting providing us with some color on the town of Zichron Ya'akov, marking my first official tour in Hebrew. She also took us by one of the wineries (next time I'll have to come up here for some more wine adventures as it is right in the heart of Israel's vineyards) where we made a toast to our new start in Israel and enjoyed some local red. After touring the town a bit, some of my fellow immigrants who hail from Ethiopia invited me to sit with them for lunch - the best invitation I had received in a while. Ever since Mama Desta closed in Chicago, I have been missing Ethiopian ingera and food. Flavorful and filling! Just before leaving Zichron, I passed a restaurant's sign that seems to have locations around Israel, providing food and laughter for all. The mix of the Hebrew font, the Thai city and the Chinese cuisine for "Chiang Mai Chinese Restaurant" provide one enough fodder for some light laughs and conversation.

We continued touring in the area, the next highlight surely being the visit to the 'Acqueducts Beach,' called such because of the Caesarean acqueducts built parallel to the coast line. Just North and South of Caesarea are, in what might be tough to disprove, Israel's finest beaches. Clean sand and water and typically a decent ride in the waves can be found. A pretty fulfilling way to end the day's mini-adventures.

Donations Go Both Ways

Tonight I headed to some event hosted by Nefesh B'Nefesh, the organization that ever so courteously chartered the plane that got me here.

On the way over, my friend Rachel and I noticed that someone who worked at a bakery along the way set out a tray of pastries. What a nice welcome present for passing their shop. I felt like I was back at home with my family for a minute, sampling every dessert on the menu. So a big thank you to Tufiney in Emek Refa'im for giving me an eclectic array of sweets to stuff in my mouth. (Not a paid endorsement but hopefully a measure that will ensure continued free samplings).

Just a quick step across the street was the event.
I watched a few Seinfeld episodes that were projected on a big screen outside with some friends and then went to give of myself to Magen David Adom, Israel's Shield of David ambulatory care services. Being only the second time that I've ever done this (the first was in Be'er Sheva in 2004 also with MDA), I was slightly nervous, given I've almost passed out from blood tests. (In my defense, that experience was after I was required to fast until a mid-afternoon appointment). However I was more confident going into the experience that my sugar level was quite high enough to keep me conscious.

my blood

Just as I sat on the bed to become the patient/victim/philanthropist, I asked my standard pre-taking-blood-from-me question: "have you ever done this before?" The medic wasn't too impressed. Or maybe my Hebrew version just didn't translate quite right. Or possibly she had seen buckets of blood that evening and it had become a tired routine. Either way, in and out went the needle and a bag of my finest spirits later, I felt pretty good about giving back to the society here. And rewarded myself with imitation Sunkist and yet more sweets.

תגובה חזקה לכל מתנגדי הרכבת הקלה - Strong Response to Those Against the Jerusalem Light Rail Project

 זוהי תגובה חזקה למאמר שהודפס בעיתון "הארץ" מאת ניר חסון. ו

לירושלים תהיה מערכת חדשה לתחבורה. כרגיל, הציבור מתלונן על כמה דברים בשני הצדדים. לא תמיד טועים בהחלט אבל גם לא צודקים ללא ספק. אחת מהמחלוקות היא הסקר שהחברה שבונה את הרכבת ותפעיל אותה מעבירה לכמות נוסעים עתידיים. שתי השאלות האחרונות בסקר בוחנות הרגשות של תושבי ירושלים על יחסים עם הערבים באזור שיוכלו לנסוע ברכבת גם. לפי דעתי, השאלות האלה הן מיותרות ואין צורך או סיבה עליהן. עפרה בן-ארצי, שהייתה אחת מהנשאלים, הגיבה לסוקרים בצורה כועסת ולא רציונלית. היא אמרה שהסקר הוא גזעני ולא היה שואלים שאלות כאלה בלונדון או בניו יורק. היא המשיכה: "אני לא מתכוונת להשתמש ברכבת כי היא עוברת בשטחים." ו

קודם כל, ישראל נמצאת במצב אחר לגמרי מאנגליה ומארה"ב - במיוחד ירושלים. העובדה הזאת היא נוכחית בחיים היום-יום בארץ ואפשר לפרט את זה לדוגמאות רבות של המציאות שאנחנו חיים בה. שנית, גברת בן-ארצי בחרה לקרוא למזרח ירושלים "השטחים," הטענה שלה מוגזמת ומציגה נקודת מבט המעוניינת בהחרפת הבעיה במקום לעזור כדי לתקן את זה. ו

אני שואל אותה: אם מסלול הרכבת לא היה עובר בשכונות פלסטיניות מה היית אומרת על זה? במטרה להגן על הרכבת ומסלוליה, אני חושב שהיא הייתה כועסת ביותר וזועקת שהעירייה גזענית, אילו הוחלט שהרכבת לא תשרת את הפלסטינים. מכיוון שהדור החדש של תחבורה ציבורית בעיר יהיה זמין לכולם בלי מחשבות על דת, צבע עור ואזרחות לטובת שוויון, תבוטל לחלוטין הטענה שישראל שוב מתעלמת מהאוכלוסייה הפלסטינית. ו

כדי לתמוך בנקודה הקודמת, אוסיף:ישראל נמצאת במצב בטחוני שונה מכל המדינות האחרות. בגלל מצב הביטחון ואיומים קבועים, הממשלה ומנגנוני הביטחון מוכרחים לפעול ולשמור על אזרחי ישראל נגד הסכנות הנוכחיות האלה. מפני שהנסיעה הראשונה של הרכבת הקלה תהיה בעוד פחות משנה ואולי תפעל החורף ועדיין אין תהליך או מערכת מאורגנת ומסוימת לאבטח אותה מפיגועים יש בעיה גדולה ומדאיגה. עם נוסעים ערביים או בלי, יש צורך חזק להתייחס במערכת הזאת אל הדאגה הביטחונית ולרעת עתיד הרכבת שלא חשבו על המצב הביטחוני אלא רק על אבן ירושלמית. ו

The following is a strong response to an article printed in Ha'Aretz newspaper and written by Nir Hason.

In the near future, Jerusalem will introduce a new public transportation system.
Like usual, the public is already up in arms and complaining about several items across both sides of the issues.
It is important for the sake of impartiality to recognize that people are not always totally incorrect when arguing passionately about such issues of policy, yet they are also not quite accurate without any doubts. One of the many arguments is centered around a survey of a sampling of future riders, which was distributed by the company that built the train and will operate it. The two last questions on the survey examine the feelings of Jerusalem residents regarding relations with Arabs in the area that will also be able to ride the train. In my opinion, these questions are superfluous and without reason. Ofra Ben-Artzi, who was one of the recipients of the survey, responded to the surveyors in an angry and irrational manner. She said that the survey was racist and that these questions would not be asked in London or New York. She continued: "I do not intend to use the train in any case since it passes through the 'territories.'"

First of all, Israel is found in a situation completely different from England and the United States - especially with regard to Jerusalem. This fact is present in daily life in Israel and it is possible to detail numerous examples of the reality in which we live.
Secondly, Ms. Ben-Artzi chose to call East Jerusalem the 'territories,' which exaggerates her claim and presents a viewpoint that perpetuates the problem instead of helping to fix it.

I ask Ms. Ben-Artzi: If the train's path did not pass Palestinian neighborhoods, what would you say then? In defense of the train and its path, I think that she would be even angrier and would cry out that the municipality is racist if it was decided that the train would not serve the Palestinian sector. Because the new generation of public transportation in the city will be available for everyone without regard to religion, skin color and nationality is for the betterment of equality and completely rebuts the claim that Israel is again ignoring the Palestinian population.

In order to support the above point, I will add: Israel is found in a security situation different from all other nations. Because of this security situation and constant threats, the government and security apparatus needs to act and protect her citizens against these present dangers. Since the light rail train will be inaugurated in less than one year and perhaps even this winter and there still is no defined process or organized system to protect it from terror attacks is a considerable and worrisome problem. With Arab passengers or not, there is a strong need to connect this system to the security concern, as it will be to the detriment of the future of the train that the security situation was not thought through prior to its launch and that there was more focus on maintaining its character with Jerusalem stone.

By Day & By Night - Machaneh Yehuda Explored

Jerusalem Overview
Today was our first ulpan outing and, convenient enough, it was a few hours tour around some Jerusalem neighborhoods to give us a good idea of her boundaries and what lies on the outskirts of the city. The highlights (according to the esteemed author) included a stop at Hebrew University's Mount Scopus campus, overlooking both the western and southern neighborhoods as well as providing a scenic view of the West Bank and a nice anchor of nostalgia from when I used to go to school there. I also enjoyed seeing the areas that were surrounding the ulpan that I wasn't familiar with and learning some of the back stories of the recent and ancient events that took place right around where we live.

Return to Shangri La
As promised, for the third week in a row I returned to the Machaneh Yehuda open air market to enjoy the festivities of the day. This time, I got there during the daylight hours and really appreciated a lot more of the variety and activities that were showcased. Quite random street performers included a moderately older Yemenite gentleman who played religiously inspired mizrachi (of Spanish/Eastern Jewish influence) tunes on an electric guitar to a welcoming crowd. A young woman who captivated the attention of Jerusalem youngsters as she took them on a tour of the shuk - and even managed to coerce a smile from a friendly pita vendor. An interesting fellow who carved up watermelon to give away...and then proceeded to nail the spent 'crust' to a wooden board. A Sephardi band that kicked up quite a scene, inspiring some improvisational dancing amongst a 7 year old and an 80 year old while onlookers assembled in nearby chairs and some played intense matches of shesh-besh (backgammon). There was also an interesting sort of subdued departure of creativity: a table was set up inside one of the market aisles at which two guys sat before a sign that said in Hebrew 'a song for a shekel.' I was certainly tempted to put my silver colored, plastic feeling coin forward, but lacked a theme about which to commission a song. Next week it will be done, so long as the affordable composers show up for work.

Let's pause for dinner.
Mmmm. I've never had any sort of meal in the market before tonight. After walking all over the city to get here, I had to sit down and take a break and reward my stomach with the pleasures that my eyes had envied from all the market stalls. Sheeran and I went to a place that looked pretty packed: Ima, Hebrew for mother. It bridged both main aisles of the shuk and was another opportunity to eat a hearty Moroccan meal. We split an appetizer of a few types of kubeh, which are basically meat and other spiced stuff fried in a dumpling sort of thing. It tastes better than I can describe it, trust me. I had a beef goulash mixed with vegetables and rice and Sheeran got a pretty interesting and flavorful lemony kubeh dish. And on to a bit more wandering after the gorging ended...

As Sheeran watched patiently and then continued excitedly to beat some kids in foosball, I went to watch and join in on some Israeli dancing. It was a pretty great experience again. I enjoy the spontaneity of it and the free spirited fun and warmth that people have with others who they have never met, united with a common goal of celebrating the music and dancing that has been a cornerstone of Israeli culture since its birth. After I was ready to leave, I ran back for more - they had just put on one of my newest favorite songs. I'm not sure what it's called, who sings it or how they fit all of the greatest sounds into that track. I was able to record a bit of it (below) for repeated enjoyment, but had to live the moment and go dance to it as well.

Flavor in Everything

Jerusalem 93627
Today I officially became a resident of Jerusalem, as far as the municipality is concerned based on their regulations for purchasing a discount card to special events and museums. The Yerushalmi card, as it is affectionately known, gives me access to discounts of all kinds, which makes everything taste better, naturally.

After buying the card, I went with Sheeran and Sharon, my roommate and his cousin, respectively, to take advantage of the card for the first time. We each bought tickets for the next big show: Shlomo Artzi in Sacher Park. The last time I saw Shlomo Artzi was the summer of 1996, the first year I visited Israel. No doubt it will be an emotional reunion for us, so stayed tuned for the concert report.

Moroccan Meal Aftermath
After hanging out in the city center for a bit, at which point Sheeran was conned into signing up for a credit card (true story), Sharon invited us to her mom's house for dinner. It was quite an incredible feast, though it was just Sheeran and me that ate. The aftermath (pictured) evidences that there were, indeed, nine flavors that were mixed together to form the perfection of the Moroccan feast. To show my appreciation for the abundance of food and hospitality, as well as my eagerness for the next invitation, I helped Sharon mop up the top roof where the kiddie pool provided a nightly relaxation hotspot.

Land of Hops & Honey
The next night we all reconvened, with more of Sheeran's cousins, at the 6th Annual Jerusalem Beer Festival. After pushing my way through the massive line for tickets, I felt like I deserved a decent beer. Though the festival touted over 100 types of beer available, I kept it simple and tried two. The half liter I bought was Triple Carmelite, an 8.4% ABV tasty brew. We listened to some fun live music, put on by a known Israeli band called Girafot. That means 'giraffes' if you couldn't surmise already from the similarly sounding word. After hanging out with other friends we ran in to, I went over and tasted a beer by Israel's Negev Brewery. I wish I had stuck with that label all night - I tasted their paciflora (passion fruit) beer. Quite an experience and flavor explosion of a beer. Where are you sold Negev Beer? I'd like some more, please.

The De-Evolution of an Evening

As Promised
I returned (via a pretty long walk - I need to clock it one of these days) again to the Machaneh Yehuda market this week to enjoy the music and atmosphere, celebrating 100 years of the market's existence. It proved to put a smile on my face yet again - and kept me beckoning for more: next week I'm interested in getting there in the mid-afternoon so I can actually see more of the street artists perform their dancing and different acts, aside from just the awesomeness of the late night bands.

Just Like Home
Sometimes my family, at the behest of my dad, would have 'home-cooked' meals. Not necessarily fresh salads and hot, just-prepared foods - instead they would be a smorgasbord of whatever oddities were in the house (sometimes much to our surprise, rarely to our delight). That memory replayed at the ulpan tonight. We had pancakes alongside potatoes in a cream sauce with a mild selection from the nightly salad bar. Despite being a huge proponent (perhaps the only one) of the food here, even I was a bit put off by the lack of nourishment and options served to us. Pancakes and southern-style potatoes? For real?

Small World Connections
During my first visit to Meir Market, the local mini-market halfway up the mountain on which the ulpan is situated at the base, I made some small talk with Giselle, the shop owner (pictured). She asked me where I am from and kept probing for more particulars. In the end, we realized that her sister, who lives in my hometown of Wilmette, is friends with my parents. This would have been a bit more of a likelihood had Giselle and her sister grown up in the Chicago area - or even in the States - but they were born in Morocco, grew up in Israel and her sister Anita has since moved to the Chicago area. Quite a funny connection in the least likely of places - and just one of many I've had here.

Non-Descript Precision
Directions received from Israelis should be taken with a grain of salt and compared against reports from other passersby in order to best understand the myriad of opinions on arriving at a certain point. Their general lack of interest to go great distances by foot (and 'great' is exaggerated like you wouldn't believe) is somewhat ironic since the country is so small that one might think that the perception here would be that anything is accessible. Yet, a 20 minute walk is a journey and anything more than that is beyond imagination. Over the years I've asked for directions so many times here that I should know the formula and be familiar with how to get anywhere: "go all the way straight, keep going straight and at the end turn left (or right)." Still pretty new in the area, it is only fitting that the street signs are not properly labeled and sometimes just act like additional lighting instead of informative placards that might actually indicate where you are. Probably too much to ask for at this point; I'm sure I'll be fine by making a turn somewhere at the end of the horizon. It's working well thus far.

Art in Varied Forms

An Accidental Pleasure
So tired was I from the past week that I fell asleep on the #8 bus to Jerusalem's Central Bus Station. That's pretty sad since the ride is vomit-inducing in its short duration. Nevertheless, I missed the stop by a few seconds, which necessitated a decent hike back to the station, due to the configuration of the route and where the next stop was located. At first slightly perturbed, I was then enlightened after quickly realizing that I would have my first opportunity to traverse Jerusalem's new Chord Bridge. I think the bridge, designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, is an incredible exhibition of beauty and introduces a new life and modernism to Jerusalem, while still incorporating Jerusalem limestone to retain the character of the city. Despite my happy-go-lucky outlook, can you imagine that there are neigh sayers against such a masterpiece of beauty? Oh but they do exist! From budgetary frustrations, traffic congestion and city imagery (ie, does the bridge really fit in this place), there are many who disagree with that the bridge, as cool as it may be, should have the design it does in the place it occupies for the amount of trouble and money it cost. Complainers aside, I'm an ardent supporter.


Israeli Fashion
Arriving in Tel Aviv was as nice as ever. The weather was just hot enough to overwhelm me but I couldn't resist looking forward to the night ahead and the beach the following day. I met up with Yoni, a good friend just from March when he was the guide on the MBA trip I led here, and hung out with him for the night. Over dinner we watched some tv and the news, which was a cultural experience that was rolled into a number of laughs for me. The anchor, Yonit Levi, was reminiscent of a supermodel. What really cracked me up, though, was that the weather report was conducted by a guy in a polo shirt and jeans! Not that I think he has to or needs to dress up, but it's just a departure from the full buttoned-up suit and tie that I'm used to.

I took a short nap to recharge, put on some different clothes and went to get Yoni to get our way to the bars. He did have a drink ready for me but did not let me go out in my own clothes, saying something disparaging about my wardrobe. He got together a 'Tel Avivi' chic outfit for me and wouldn't let me refuse...so here it is. It was actually pretty comfortable and in the end agreeable with me, but it did feel weird going out to the bars in shorts. We went to a bar on Ben Yehuda Street called Eliezer and stayed there the whole night, having a good time catching up and meeting some of his friends there.


Shabbat Strikes Again
Without Shabbat plans in Tel Aviv and with a sincerely compelling offer from my friend Rafi and his girlfriend Ma'ayan, I hitched a ride to Jerusalem for the rest of the weekend, leaving my beloved beach for another weekend's pleasure. It turns out that my decision was a great one - they had a number of great people over that I enjoyed hanging out with and also prepared quite a feast for us all. I mixed such a combination of flavors that was so pleasing to the taste buds. Thanks for the invitation - I'll look forward to more of these meals with good friends soon!

More Frolicking in Jerusalem

Looking Ahead
Today my afternoon began with a meeting with Ariel Beery, the co-founder of PresenTense, a non-profit dedicated to advancing Jewish-themed start-ups around the world. Armed with peach ice tea and strong ideas, we had a great, lengthy discussion about some of my thoughts on what I'd like to explore and develop as well as areas in which I can help the organization realize some of its goals. I will definitely look forward to working with them and supporting the causes.

Ariel gave me a recent PresenTense print magazine to take with me. Having some time to kill, I went to a small, yet beautiful rose garden across the street from his office in Emek Refa'im (the German Colony by name, the American colony by population) and began to read it. I was pretty impressed by the reach and range of organizations PresenTense supports - very expansive and certainly interesting and impactful.

Not What You'd Expect
After reading most of the magazine, I met my roommate on the street to head over to my bank for some drinks and sushi. Yes, that's right. My new Bank haPoalim branch invited me and a guest to an open sushi/wine dinner in the courtyard outside their office on the occasion of their recent opening. It was pretty fun, certainly different and definitely fulfilling - quite a departure of the list of Israeli bank charges and bureaucracy. I had a few glasses of red wines from the Tabor Winery and a decent selection of vegetarian sushi before starting to head back to the homefront. The event in itself for me was just another example of the simple pleasures and fun found here that would otherwise be absent elsewhere.

Smooth Finish
On the walk home I stopped to say hi to my friend Michal, who I've known for years and who happens to live in my neighborhood now. After catching up over a glass of Limonana, I got some in some good Hebrew practice and she gave me some 'homework' - a short story to read and understand.

And a sunset on the way home closes another fun day of adventures.

Jerusalem Comes Alive

Festival of Nights - Sunday
To begin another cultural adventure, I hiked over to the Old City to meet my new-found Aussie friends Sam and Shell at the Kotel. We sat around for a while and did quite a lot of people watching and as it turns out, Shell was among the people being watched: the 'modesty patrol' gal came around a number of times as Shell's scarf fell from the nape of her neck and down below her shoulders. Unfortunately for those interested in that story, it was not at all immodest by modern standards, but just was not in line with the customs and rules of the Western Wall Plaza area. We exited the Jewish Quarter and wandered about in the Christian Quarter, passing the Church of the Holy Sepulcher as well as a number of stalls selling anything from Christian blessings to Israeli army shirts (quite ironic from Arab shopkeepers) to coins and vessels many hundreds of years old.

After saying goodbye to Shell and being as nice as ever by walking her to a sherut in hopes of meriting a place to stay in London, Sam and I headed over to Hutzot haYetzer. Celebrating its 35th year, Hutzot haYetzer is a two-week long open air arts festival featuring an assortment of eclectic wares from Israeli artists in all mediums as well as a large area that highlights artists visiting from around the world. As with any respectable festival, there was a bunch of food, including two free samples of yogurt (score!). I had an entrecote burrito for dinner, which consists basically of steak (entrecote, in Israelicized French), some guacamole spread and sauteed onions - don't forget the medley of sauces though! Despite the good food, the highlight of the evening was definitely the concert. Every night there's a show with a different famous artist. Tonight's show was K'nisiat haSechel, meaning Church of the Mind. I had only heard of them prior to tonight's show, but they turned out to be very entertaining, complete with catchy songs that now elude me. Aside from my Aussie friend, I was singing and dancing with Sheeran (male, roommate) and Sharon (female, cousin of roommate, translator of songs). It was a great time and fulfilling to be enveloped in the atmosphere of Israeli culture.

Bargaining by Day, Music by Night - Monday
Machaneh Yehuda is the daily open air market in Jerusalem, known for its fresh pita, exotic spices, tasty fruits and vegetables, delectable desserts and smashing of fish heads. At least those are my fondest memories of the place. Never before tonight had I heard about or been to the market at night. Every Monday night during the summer, though, after most of the market stalls are shuttered, the festivities start up. I went with a number of friends from ulpan to the market and the first area we came upon was Israeli dancing. We watched, enjoyed and admired...and then I found myself participating when I heard one of my favorite Israeli folk songs. It was a great time - but still just the start of the night. I meandered through the market aisles and came upon a jazz band playing. They were pretty cool and attracted quite a crowd, including my Aussie friend Sam from the previous night. Continuing on even further, we ventured to another avenue of the shuk (market), where a band took control of the area and offered some improv electric rock. They had a lot of energy, sharing it with the dancing crowd. I took the video below to give a sense of the atmosphere of the place.

Two back-to-back Jerusalem nights evidenced the electricity and dynamic faces found in the culture and people of the city. Yes - there is a lot to do in Jerusalem! Actually, there is an interesting video/article courtesy of @Israel21c that explores the depth of culture here. Reflecting on these different experiences, Jerusalem simply feels alive and vibrant. The quantity of opportunities and the quality of entertainment and civic exhibitions here truly underlines the wealth of culture that embodies the city. Next week, I'm definitely going back to the late night shuk performances.

Acclimating Well

The Usual
Every day for lunch I get excited. With few exceptions, I respectfully request of the cafeteria staff for my daily schnitzel. They even know my tastes so well that, in the horrific state of a near drought of schnitzel, they will quickly put one of the remaining slices of goodness on a plate and get it to me if they see me deep in line. To compliment the schnitzel, I make sure to accentuate its flavor with a myriad of other flavors. As is typical, I build a fortress of food for which the schnitzel is the essential building block. The amalgamation of tastes is simply incredible.

Tastes Great, Probably Less Filling
To go along with my culinary preferences, I have discovered a new drink that is refreshing above all others: Limonana. It is a drink with special refreshing powers - lemonade with an infusion of mint (nah-nah in Hebrew). The other drink I regularly order at cafes is tay nah-nah - mint tea. Even simpler, it is hot water with fresh mint leaves and makes you healthier with each sip. At least mentally. To increase the flavor and health attributes, I like to add louisa (lemon verbena) leaves and an ever so slight bit of sugar. Unfortunately the cafes tend not to carry any louisa so I either have to pilfer my roommate's stash or venture outside the metropolitan areas where people have it more in their gardens.

Among other joys, oddities and accomplishments...
Though I have not yet perfected it, I have made much headway in mastering the 'Israeli stare.' This unofficial gaze is commonly used by all Israelis, especially the younger generations. I don't think it is from bewilderment, but perhaps curiosity of the 'other.' They stare at whomever walks down the street with such intent, unavoidable and unwavering concentration. I have come far in that I first noticed it peculiarly, looking away uncomfortably. I then embraced it, still without understanding, and now often win the staring contests, often not disengaging before my opponent. Little steps in building the aggressiveness needed for life here, I suppose.

Mad Skillz
Building confidence and showing off skills that I'm apparently gaining from hours in class each day, I often receive compliments on my Hebrew speaking (and handwriting too, actually). Whenever I'm out and about, to borrow the obnoxious Canadian expression, I always engage Israelis in Hebrew and will make sure to incorporate new vocabulary, sentence structures and the like. Sometimes I try jokes too, but my successful laugh rate is a bit lower than I'd like - perhaps because of translation issues but probably more because of the different styles of humor. A bunch of Israelis also tell me that my accent isn't so prominent and is more like a French accent when speaking Hebrew - just please don't picture a typical Frenchy French accent because that's not at all how I sound. Nor does it mean that I seem like a French person either. At least the ulpan is paying off.

Mobile Integration
So I already carry around two cell phones. Isn't that enough to be on my way to feeling more Israeli? In order to fully feel the culture, I have an Israeli ring on my phone - not the ring that I hear when I get calls, but rather the song that plays for callers instead of the normal beeps. Pretty much everyone has a song of their choosing and I couldn't go without one, lest I not fit in with the forward-thinking digital culture. As I was signing my phone bill contract (which I technically didn't even see), I knew exactly which song I wanted: ארץ חדשה ע"י שלמה ארצי (Eretz Hadasha by Shlomo Artzi). Sung by one of Israel's most loved singers, the name of the song means 'new land.' It's a great song and one that Israelis get excited to sing - think of a similar craziness in the US when "Livin' On A Prayer" or "Don't Stop Believing" is played in bars. Aside from the collective singing fun, it is also a song that resonates with obvious meaning for me.

With the bountifully awesome fruit, views of the Judean Hills and the pleasures of the coastline, my absorption into Israel and Israeli society is agreeing with me quite well, one month in (720 hours, Dad).

Sof Shavua Ragua ~ סוף שבוע רגוע

School is out for the weekend and I'm off to Tel Aviv!
My preferred method of transportation between the largest of Israel's cities is the sherut, a shared taxi service. These minivans exist for intra-city service in some areas and also between cities. Two great things about the service:
1 - When the van reaches capacity (10), it leaves. No need to wait in line in the bus station to buy tickets or to wait for the bus to depart at the designated time.
2 - The trip costs just 22 shekels ($5.80 - which is the same price of the bus I believe) to/from Jerusalem/Tel Aviv. So cheap.
And off I go...

Upon my arrival, I headed to the beach to relax on the tayelet (boardwalk). Soon after I sat down, a German girl and an American woman with her child (who were both living in Germany) approached me and asked me to take part in a survey about religion. It was pretty interesting and made me challenge myself to answer some tough philosophical questions.

Continuing the German tradition, I met up with a new & also German friend, and walked along the Mediterranean boardwalk to Jaffa, the southern part of Tel Aviv. Thursday nights in the summer are great for going to Shuk haPishpushim, the flea market. Crowded with people, art, jewelry and antiques, the shuk is a great place to walk around and enjoy the scenery while listening to live music. We ate at a great restaurant called Puah which offered a nice atmosphere, tasty Mediterranean fare and good mojitos (pronounced in Israel as mo-chee-to with guttural emphasis instead of a soft 'h.' We walked back along the boardwalk and paused at the memorial for the 21 teenagers who were killed in a terror attack on the Dolphinarium nightclub in 2001. Just one year earlier, I celebrated Israel's Independence Day with my friends at that same club and have always been saddened when remembering the tragedy that befell the community in Israel.

Friday night brought with it a nice Shabbat meal with Ofer and Avital. They offer a truly great example of warm Israeli hospitality: having called them on a whim since earlier accommodations fell through, they let me stay at their place with just moments' notice and offered great meals and company. I will say that, for my part, I am always a good house guest and do dishes for those who cook for me - please bring on the invitations!

During the sunlight hours on Friday and Saturday, I met up with a bunch of friends from various circles on the Tel Aviv beaches, Gordon Beach being my sand spot of choice. So relaxing was my time at the beach that I fell asleep under our sunbrella (shimshiya) and woke up when the sun began to set. As borrowed from the always eclectic Israeli radio station Galgalatz, it was a relaxing weekend (sof shavua ragua)...

An Afternoon in Ein Karem

In the hopefully never-ending continuation of my explorations and adventures, I went with ulpan friends Dan (Brazil) and Emma (Australia via England) to my roommate Sheeran's dad's place in the Jerusalem neighborhood of Ein Karem. During the interlude of waiting for the second bus to come, I met two young Israelis who were volunteering to promote a viewpoint on the prisoner swap issue regarding Gilad Shalit. The represented organization's slogan is: "Yes to Free Shalit - No to Free Terrorists!" Distinct from the Shalit family's message, this organization stands firm that it is not interested in releasing terrorists 'at any price' in order for Shalit's return. They have their own poster of faces that represents the victims of previous terror attacks, committed by potential candidates for release in a possible prisoner swap. What should be understood is two things. First, the whole country is interested in Gilad Shalit's return home quickly and safely. Secondly, it is important to recognize that there is much pain on both sides and that the issue is not so simple.

Once we got off the rollercoaster of a ride (described as such because of the ups and downs of the Jerusalem hills and also because of the near vomit-inducing experience of sitting on the extension part of an extended bus driven by an Israeli bus driver) we followed Sheeran to his dad's place. On the way, two nice locals (Sima and Tzlil) invited us up to their balcony since they saw that our eyes were wide and amazed at the spectacular views. We went to what turned out to be Sheeran's family's compound, or so it seemed. A comfortable amount of property and on it a house that his dad built in the '70s. We talked with his dad for a bit, listened to some Israeli music and had tea while playing shesh besh (backgammon). Actually, Sheeran pretty much decimated me, but to my credit I'm still a beginner. After resting a bit, we picked some fresh fruit from the various types of trees they have in their garden. I especially enjoyed the fresh, soft figs. My first time eating fresh figs were at Kibbutz Gadot just a few weeks ago. Time #2 was equally as good and interesting. Who knew what they would taste like outside a Fig Newton?!

Since the hour was getting late, much to my dismay we missed the dinner bell. Instead, on the way back we stopped at a falafel shop close to our dorm. Though I was not initially interested in partaking in any curiously round, fried chickpeas this evening, I did finally have my first falafel since my arrival. Though some things are ridiculously expensive (namely, cars, which carry a 100% tax), street food is quite the opposite. I was able to get half a portion of falafel in a lafa, a tortilla-esque version of a pita, for only 9 sheks ($2.39). Not bad for a dinner; not bad for a nice day touring another scenic-ly serene neighborhood in Jerusalem.

A Day of Field Trips

After class I walked a long, hot walk to the prime minister's residence in the Rechavia neighborhood. Today marks 1,500 days since Gilad Shalit's abduction into Gaza. His family and his 'army of friends' organized a mass rally, encircling the block on which sits the prime minister's home. The rally gathered hundreds of people and drew much attention for local passersby, passing cars and the media. Participants held signs that expressed their passion and their goal could be understood by the sea of faces that were masked with Gilad's likeness. At the head of the pack, leading the supporters around the block were Noam and Aviva, Gilad's parents, who have been devoting their lives to the release of their son. It was great to see them there and with full energy, though I know that this must be a traumatic experience for them daily.

After observing the rally for a while, I walked to Givat Ram to the Israel Museum. For a mere 60 shekels ($16) I toured the museum for about two hours and enjoyed a number of incredible exhibits that featured the history and traditions of Israel and Judaism from around the world. This picture is an original known as the Nuremberg Machzor (high holiday prayer book) attributed to the scribes Mattanyah and Jacob in 1331. Other impressive works included microcalligraphy samples and modern art of like Picasso and Israeli artists as well as rebuilt original synagogues from India and elsewhere around the world.

After I ended my museum tour, which was definitely impressive, I went to meet my roommate and other friends at the museum's outdoor pavilion for the Israel Wine Festival. This was by far the best single event and night of my immersion into Israel. There was a live band, a wine glass to take home and a plethora of samples (or full glasses) in which to partake. I had a great time and met a bunch of people, new and old, that were fun to enjoy the evening with. Among them were a few people touring Israel as part of a select group of social media professionals, writing about their experiences as foreigners and, from what I understand, largely non-Jewish backgrounds (their blogs are OyVaGoy.com and Shanghai Exposed and are definitely worth reading). It was great to meet others who are interested in sharing their thoughts and experiences about Israel as well, especially so they can take back to their home countries their tales. We also met a set of Moroccan Israelis and entertained each other over more glasses of wine, which was a nice way to close the evening, all included in the price of admission.